基于现场观测数据的涌浪特征及涌浪谱研究

ANALYSIS OF SWELL CHARACTERISTICS AND SPECTRA BASED ON IN SITU MEASUREMENTS

  • 摘要: 基于太平洋沿岸秘鲁某海域的海浪观测资料,对得到的波浪数据进行了波浪特征以及波浪谱研究。结果表明,该海域主要受到来自太平洋的长周期涌浪作用,最大谱峰周期达到了20 s以上。根据相关性分析以及波高周期联合分布,得到了涌浪的特征波高和平均周期之间存在较强的线性关联,拟合得到了涌浪的各特征波高与平均周期之间的关系,可用于对涌浪的特征波高进行估计。采用了3种波浪谱模型,利用非线性最小二乘法对实测波浪谱进行了拟合分析,发现Ochi-Hubble谱模型的拟合结果与实测谱更加一致,相关系数分布在1.0附近,有效波高和谱峰周期的拟合结果整体误差均在2%以内。通过对比波浪谱型、相关系数和波浪特征参数的综合结果,认为Ochi-Hubble谱模型能够较好地描述长周期涌浪波谱。

     

    Abstract: Swell characteristics and wave spectra were studied based on in situ measurements in a Peru sea area off the Pacific coast. The sea is mainly affected by long-period swells from the Pacific Ocean, with a maximum spectral peak period of more than 20 s. A strong linear correlation between the characteristic wave heights and the mean period of swell was obtained by correlation analysis. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods, and the relationship between each characteristic wave heights and the mean period of swell were fitted, which can be used to estimate the characteristic wave heights of swell. Three wave spectral models were adopted to fit the measured wave spectra using the nonlinear least squares method, and it is found that the fitting results of the Ochi-Hubble spectra are more consistent with the measured spectra, with a correlation coefficients around 1.0, and the overall errors of the fitting results for the significant wave heights and the spectral peak periods are all within 2%. Comparing the combined results of wave spectra shape, correlation coefficients and wave characteristic parameters, it is concluded that the Ochi-Hubble spectrum is better to describe the swell spectra.

     

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